The Age of Aquarius

The counterculture movement of the Viet Nam era in the US gave the world Hippies, Woodstock and psychedelic drugs. It also ushered in a search for meaning from non-traditional sources, including Eastern philosophy and astrology. The jewelry of the time reflected these alternative ideas, and included love beads, mood rings and Zodiac symbols. The two pendants featured here are from the late 1960’s – early 1970’s and happen to represent Cancer and Leo, the two astrological signs celebrating birthdays this summer.

The pendant and chain above was designed by Tiffany & Co. and is comprised of solid 18kt yellow gold. On the front is a picture of a crab, the sign for Cancer (June 21- July 22), and on the back is the astrological symbol for the same. The 1.5-inch medallion is cast in wax, which gives the crustacean a more three-dimensional and animated appearance. This technique is often used in sculptural jewelry.

The pendant on the right is by Buccellati and is a malachite stone encased by an 18kt gold depiction of a lion, the
sign for Leo (July 23 – August 22). The carved and etched setting shows the skill and craftsmanship that only Buccellati can achieve. The unquestionable attention to detail is seen in the movement in the lion’s mane; and the scalloped edges of the setting are fashioned especially for the irregular and natural form of the tumbled stone it encases. In keeping with the “hippie” vibe, the malachite stone, which is said to bring harmony into one’s life, is the front of the pendant, with the intricate design in back.

These pieces are examples of how the counterculture movement of the time influenced even the most staid establishments like these two distinguished jewelry houses. Pretty groovy! Print this post