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I admit… I’m a chronic, compulsive vintage jewelry shopper. Call it an occupational hazard; I’m constantly on the lookout for rare finds, signed gems, and interesting design compositions that I haven’t seen before. In my work, I am privileged to see some of the most amazing pieces of vintage and estate jewelry on display in ateliers from New York to Paris to more far-flung antique jewelry markets from the South-end of Boston to Lambertville, New Jersey. For me, a lot of the intrigue comes from the process of discovery. Last summer, I visited the Sowa Open Market in Boston on my way back from a weekend in Nantucket. As with most open- air markets, oftentimes you’re left with more quantity than quality; but that somehow makes the random discovery all the more exciting. On this visit, I came across a small booth with a haphazard mix of Victorian, more personal fine pieces and more retro costume from the savants of the period: Trifari, Napier, Sarah Coventry, and vintage Kenneth Jay Lane. Laid in a worn velvet box, buried about 10 trays under a stack of tangled vintage chains and orphan earrings, was a gorgeous green malachite signed Lanvin pendant, circa late 1960’s according to the owner of the booth.
To this day, I still have not seen anything quite like it. It bears all of the hallmarks of late 60’s-early 70’s Lanvin costume design, but, it still remains one of the most vibrant incarnations I have come across to this day. Ironically, one of my favorite aspects of the piece is actually the subtle geometric gold cage work on the back. So, when I’m in the mood to wear something more gold than green, I flip it and wear it backwards for a more modernist look.
I’ve always said that jewelry is one accessory more innately personal than most of the other pieces you purchase in your lifetime. Perhaps because it’s worn so close to you, most jewelry is imbued with a very personal history. The green malachite Lanvin pendant is that for me, it’s one of my great finds; and, now, has a story writ all its own.
- Kate Davidson Hudson is Executive Accessories Editor of ELLE Print this post
