Pietra Dura

There are several examples of techniques that have been translated from architecture and other art forms to jewelry, such as the micromosaic piece that we featured recently. Another example is pietra dura. The plural pietre dure is an Italian phrase that translates literally to "hard stones," and refers to inlaid designs made from meticulously shaped, highly-polished colored stones. This craft was developed in Florence in the 16th century, and was used primarily within the architecture and furnishings. The Opificio delle Pietre Dure e Laboratori di Restauro, the court’s workshops for the preservation of semi-precious stones, was founded by Ferdinando I de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, in 1588, and was one of the leading artistic workshops of the Italian Renaissance. The Chapel of Princes (Cappella dei Principi) in the Basilica of St. Lawrence (Basilica di San Lorenzo) in Florence is considered to be one of the masterpieces of pietra dura to emerge from this period.

Although it is unusual to find pietra dura in jewelry, there are examples such as this charming choker-length necklace. The client who brought this in was excited to learn that what she thought was just a nice piece of jewelry was actually a work of art! Each of the twelve floral gold settings encases a highly detailed stone inlay depicting a butterfly comprised of malachite, jasper, onyx, lapis and agate. The pietre dure featured in this necklace are no larger than a nickel, yet they are still intricate and beautiful; and the craftsmanship is impeccable – the seams between the stones are invisible to the naked eye. In each section, the artist plays with the natural pattern of the stone to create a very detailed, complex and handcrafted feel. This piece is a great example of the successful translation of this technique into jewelry.

Although pietra dura tends to be associated with Italian Renaissance architecture, one of the most famous and beautiful examples is the Taj Mahal in India. In commissioning this Wonder of the Modern World, the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan had precious stones inlaid in stark white marble. This has translated into a thriving pietra dura industry in India. However, Indian pieces tend to have a more eastern feel than the necklace depicted here, which most likely originated in a European workshop. Print this post