The Case for Recycling Coral

The use of coral as an adornment dates back to prehistoric times. The demand for coral in jewelry remains strong today, due to its impressive array of colors - ranging from pale pink, known as “angel skin”, to the much sought-after deep red, sometimes called “red fire coral”.

Angel skin coral was often used for antique style pieces, like this cameo pendant circa 1850’s (at left). As mentioned in our previous post, the use of softer, more easily carved materials such as shell and coral began replacing hard stone in cameos during the Renaissance.

Deep orange coral is also very popular, as shown in this Van Cleef & Arpels brooch circa 1960’s (below right). Forming a coral design itself, the piece is rendered in 18kt yellow gold and accented with cylindrical-shaped coral and round diamonds.

As much as we enjoy the light, fanciful pieces made from coral, we can’t ignore the environmental impact of harvesting coral for jewelry. Unlike a gemstone, coral is a marine plant species found in tropical waters throughout the world. Contrary to its colorful reputation, coral is actually a translucent organism that derives its color from the algae that it hosts. Coral reefs, like Australia’s Great Barrier Reef (pictured below), are a vital part of the marine ecosystem, supporting close to 25% of all marine creatures.

The case for protection from over-harvesting of coral has become more immediate in recent years, as the reefs have also become victims of environmental factors. When the temperature gets too warm, coral evicts the algae and other organisms it hosts, resulting in what is known as coral bleaching. A recent NY Times article discussed the accelerated coral bleaching that has resulted from this year’s extreme heat.

Many jewelers have stopped using coral in jewelry so as not to further disturb this delicate life source. This is something that we at CIRCA endorse, however, we also recognize that coral has played an integral part of jewelry design throughout history. As such, there are countless beautiful estate pieces for people to continue to wear and enjoy while still being a friend to our environment.



Image: Australia's Great Barrier Reef, Courtesy: Sustainabilitymagazine.com
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