Making a Cameo...

The first cameos were handcrafted in ancient Greece dating back as far as the 3rd century BC. They were popular among Greeks and Romans alike and were carved from semi-precious gemstones, usually onyx and agate, which have different layers of contrasting colors. Ancient cameos typically depicted rulers or scenes from mythology and were used mainly for signet rings or l’objets d’art. Cameos as jewelry have had periodic revivals since, first during the Renaissance, and most notably during the 1800’s in France. During these revivals, shells were often used in the place of hard stones since they were easily carved, making them less expensive to produce.

The 19th century resurgence began in Napoleon’s France, fueled by excavations of the buried cities of Herculaneum and Pompeii. When Napoleon’s coronation crown was decorated with cameos, it set off a craze throughout Europe. The en esclavage necklace of sardonyx cameos pictured here is circa 1800 Europe. En esclavage necklaces are characterized by graduating cameos, mosaics, gemstones or other materials joined by multiple fine, loosely hanging chains. This particular necklace has a classical Roman mythology theme. Each cameo depicts Cupid with different animals: serpents, butterflies, birds, snails, dogs and even the Man on the Moon. The chain links in between each set carving are made of very fine gold links, each textured by hand and in great condition. Two of the cameos have been replaced in this necklace (see the figures in white above), but overall this Neoclassical piece is in very good condition, and therefore a great find. In addition, the cameos in this piece are carved from sardonyx rather than shells, adding to its value. Print this post