A Packaged Deal

When selling jewelry, it is always to your advantage to try to sell an item in its original box. Original packing will help you to get top dollar, as it can be an important factor in the resale value of a piece. Collectors equate packaging and paperwork with legitimacy in a world where replicas and fakes are rampant. In this case, we’re speaking about the brand box, from Cartier, Tiffany, etc., not a retail box that the item may have come in, even if it is from Saks.

We recently purchased this lovely cross pendant composed of pearls, diamonds and enamel beads with its original box. This particular example of packaging is exceptional, since the fitted box was made specifically to hold this piece of jewelry, a practice which is rarely seen with jewelry today. The box is made to hold this necklace perfectly, with an indention exactly where the necklace should lie. As with any custom item, a box like this is worth a considerable amount of money, and should never be separated from the piece for which it was made.

While this cross is an antique item (it is engraved with the date 1905, but could be even older), it would likely be worth as much as 30% less on the secondary market without its box. This is an extreme case, but let it be a lesson to all of us to always save the boxes and pouches that come with our jewelry and watches!

Go Johnny Go!

Is it wrong to enjoy men’s figure skating far more than the women’s program? It’s the unexpected flourishes on the men’s costumes this year which makes it my choice for Olympic sports entertainment. And no one flourishes quite like my favorite, American Johnny Weir.

For the men’s short program last week, Johnny certainly didn’t disappoint. It was a lesson to us all on how the right accessories can make an outfit. He wore a corset-style costume that accentuated his long, shapely torso, and a pink tassel on his left shoulder that moved beautifully with his spins. The NBC commentators couldn’t stop commenting on how he was “working that pink tassel”. It made me realize that we should all think about how our clothes and jewelry move with us - it can be very seductive.

The earliest examples of tassels in jewelry are perhaps the 18th century brooches made en tremblant – these “trembled” as the wearer moved. They were pinned near the bosom so when the lady breathed…well, you get the idea. Tassels were also used in Victorian bracelets; however this style didn’t really come into vogue until around the 1950’s. Van Cleef and other jewelers used that design element in watches, necklaces and bracelets, like the one pictured here. 

There is something very tactile and sexy in the soft strands of the tassels which sway along with any movements. It is akin to throwing one’s hair back, but it is so much more elegant when done with a piece of
jewelry. So keep this in mind when you spring for your next piece. Take a page from Johnny Weir and don’t be afraid to rock that tassel! Remember ladies – it’s all about you!

Images: Johnny Weir, Getty Images

In the Loupe is authored by CIRCA’s resident trendspotter and style maven. Her expertise in life’s finer things comes from a background that is as rich and diverse as the jewels she evaluates. She’s traveled the world, dabbling in high finance, haute cuisine, and fine art at one of the world’s leading auction houses, before finding her true calling in the world of priceless gems. The result is a genuine global luxury connoisseur, with a knowledge and appreciation of beauty, quality and true style. She is one of the industry’s foremost experts on the valuation of fine gems and jewelry, and is now happy to share her discerning eye and impeccable taste to help you look and feel fabulous!

Trend Alert - 70's Jewelry

Recently at CIRCA, we’ve seen a renewed interest in jewelry from the 1970’s. Much like the Twiggy haircuts popping up on the red carpet this awards season, the jewelry is making a major comeback.

These earrings are by Van Cleef & Arpels and have that mod-look that we’re all craving right now. They’re an egg shape with both white and pink coral separated by a curving row of diamonds. It is important to note that these earrings are VCA Paris, which is considered to be the premiere VCA workshop. They contain both the VCA Paris signature and the appropriate french hallmarks – in this case, the eagle head in profile. This can be difficult to spot with the naked eye, which is where a jeweler’s loupe comes in handy. It is always good practice when you have a piece of estate jewelry from Van Cleef & Arpels to check the signature to see if there is any mention of a location. Another location signature is VCA New York.

As always, condition is a major factor when you’re selling your jewelry. Notice the small crack in the coral on the left earring. In this case, the crack won’t likely affect the stability of the piece, but it could still scare off a potential buyer.

The Bold and the Beautiful - Paloma Picasso

Paloma Picasso could hardly help being an artist. Born in 1949 as the youngest child to artists Pablo Picasso and Françoise Gilot, creativity is certainly in her blood. Even her name, Paloma, is tied to a great work of art. Paloma means “dove” in Spanish, and she was named after the dove that her father created to be the symbol of the International Peace conference in Paris the year of her birth. True to her birthright, the dove appears as a recurring theme in Paloma’s creations.

Paloma’s career began in Paris in 1968 with trips to the flea market that resulted in her creating costume jewelry. This helped her to gain critical notice and respect, which led her to brief stints as an accessories designer with Yves Saint Laurent and then designing jewelry for the Greek jeweler Zolotas.

In 1980, Picasso was approached by Tiffany & Co. to design a jewelry line, which she enthusiastically accepted. It was there that Paloma not only changed the look of modern jewelry, but the attitude towards it as well. She believed that jewelry was deeply personal and something that women should buy for themselves, rather than waiting for gifts from men. Her look is distinctively bold and almost always referred to as “statement jewelry” - created for a woman with the confidence to make a statement. When Paloma got her start, there were very few female jewelry designers, and having a woman design for women was greatly appreciated by the public. Women also couldn’t help but be drawn to her persona. She always wore deep red lipstick and exuded a European glamour that fascinated Americans.

Read more >>

Universally Flattering - The Bib Necklace

I was recently at Danny Meyer’s new restaurant, Maialino, for brunch, and I have to say, it was a pleasure to see waitresses comport themselves with so much style. Our lovely waitress wore a black shirt with a bib-style coral and gold necklace - very apropos for a restaurant, but also incredibly of the moment and chic. Kudos to Danny Meyer for encouraging style at his restaurants!

Speaking of bib-style necklaces… Later that evening, I sat watching the SAG awards fashion commentary and noticed that Joan Rivers, head of the fashion police herself, was wearing a huge bib-style necklace in pink stones to complement her fuchsia ensemble! Indeed, as I look ahead at the spring/summer collections, there is definitely a gathering of minds around this look. See for instance Cartier, Vera Wang and even JCrew. Judging from this week's Fall 2010 runway shows, it seems that this trend will take us to the end of the year and beyond.

It seems that the women of today are discovering what Old Hollywood knew – that large, statement necklaces are universally flattering, and lend color and life to the face. Just look at the old publicity shots of Bette Davis, Elizabeth Taylor and the other screen sirens, and you’ll see that they always have an iconic piece adorning their necks. This style is a friend to young starlets and timeless beauties alike – please note that Sophia Loren never goes out without her choker.

If, like me, you are feeling the urge to buy, I say go, go, go! You don't have to be a Hollywood star to look and feel like one. Remember ladies - it's all about you!

Images: Badgley Mischka Spring 2010 from badgleymischka.com; Amy Adams; Sophia Loren, Source: AP

In the Loupe is authored by CIRCA’s resident trendspotter and style maven. Her expertise in life’s finer things comes from a background that is as rich and diverse as the jewels she evaluates. She’s traveled the world, dabbling in high finance, haute cuisine, and fine art at one of the world’s leading auction houses, before finding her true calling in the world of priceless gems. The result is a genuine global luxury connoisseur, with a knowledge and appreciation of beauty, quality and true style. She is one of the industry’s foremost experts on the valuation of fine gems and jewelry, and is now happy to share her discerning eye and impeccable taste to help you look and feel fabulous!

Guest Blogger - Amy Smilovic

Every jewel tells a story. CIRCA asked designer Amy Smilovic about her favorite jewelry piece:

I am loving my Stephen Webster - Rhodium Stud With Green Jade Ring. I picked it up recently and was entranced with the perfect blend of hard and soft: the edgy metal detail mixed with sweetly gleaming Jade. My show today is all about contrast and this magnificent piece is the epitome of what is inspiring me right now.

-Amy Smilovic, designer and founder of TIBI







Images: Amy Smilovic; Stephen Webster Rhodium Stud with Green Jade Ring


CIRCA wishes Amy all the best at the TIBI show tonight, February 16th, at 7:00 pm, part of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week!

The History of Love

We continue our tribute to Valentine’s Day with one of the jewelry world’s most iconic expressions of love – the Cartier Love bangle. It’s an item that we purchase almost daily here at CIRCA.

Cartier first came out with the Love bangle in 1969. It was designed by Aldo Cipullo to resemble a medieval chastity belt. It can only be removed with a key, in the form of a tiny gold screwdriver, which is often worn as a pendant. The Love bangle is meant to symbolize complete devotion to another person. There are countless tales of lovers tossing their keys into the ocean in the heat of passion. It was originally only sold in pairs to couples, and Cartier gifted his and hers bracelets to 25 famous couples, including Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Sophia Loren and Carlo Ponti, and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

The traditional Love bangle comes in yellow, white and rose gold; some are plain, while others have diamonds or pink sapphires. In 2006, Cartier expanded the theme to a 30-piece collection that includes rings, necklaces, watches and other variations on the classic.

This particular Love bangle is special because it is signed by Aldo Cipullo himself, and is inscribed with the year 1970, the year after the Love bangle was designed. There are few instances in which Cartier allowed a designer to sign their pieces, making this one all the more valuable. For those of us not so lucky in love, or otherwise looking to unload old Love bangles, rings and necklaces, now is a great time to sell because they are still at the height of their popularity.

Guest Blogger - Fern Mallis

Every jewel tells a story. CIRCA asked Fern Mallis about some of her favorite jewelry pieces:

Right now I am wearing my newest and most favorite ring…ruby red enamel “Hot Lips” ring from Solange Azagury-Partridge…who has a real gem of a store (no pun intended) on Madison and 68th.  The lips are sexy and provocative, and come in a ton of colors…but I love the red.   I also am wearing…just about every day, a selection of bangles from the Colaba street market in Mumbai.  They are extremely colorful as would be expected, and are silk threads wrapped around a plastic loop, with a gold ribbon on one side.  I wear multiples in purples, or reds, or yellows and browns, and mix up all the fabulous colors.  When the threads wear down- I throw them out!




- Fern Mallis is Senior Vice President of IMG Fashion, Organizer of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week


Images: Fern Mallis, Source: Bravotv.com; Hot Lips Silver and Lacquer Ring by Solange Azagury-Partridge

Getting What You Deserve for Valentine's Day

I’m just thrilled to be part of the CIRCA blog! I have so much to share with you about all things fabulous – jewelry, luxury, fashion and trends.

So here it is, my inaugural post (doesn’t it sound grand – so official!) Just in time for Valentine’s Day! Ladies take note – for there is no other day so full of expectation and so fraught with disappointment. But don’t blame the men, the responsibility lies with us. Don’t be shy! It is better to ask for something you will love and wear than to be polite and accept a ho-hum gift. Remember – you don’t want to end up with a pen. You laugh, but trust me, it happens!

Now about those gifts…Very important - don’t limit yourselves to heart-shaped or silly pink jewelry – the piece is an expression of the sentiment. He is mad for you – let him show it!  And what better way to break the winter blues than a piece of jewelry? Here are just a few pieces that have caught my eye… A vintage ring by Cartier with diamonds and turquoise, a yellow quartz pendant on a long chain by Tiffany & Co, and a classic David Yurman bangle with a diamond “x”.

Also, a word to the gentlemen - jewelry is always better than chocolates! We want none of that nonsense of “sweets for the sweet”. And don’t just buy what you can afford. This is a sign of your undying devotion. A rule of thumb – when you start to choke, step up and buy it.

Remember ladies – it’s all about you!

In the Loupe is authored by CIRCA’s resident trendspotter and style maven. Her expertise in life’s finer things comes from a background that is as rich and diverse as the jewels she evaluates. She’s traveled the world, dabbling in high finance, haute cuisine, and fine art at one of the world’s leading auction houses, before finding her true calling in the world of priceless gems. The result is a genuine global luxury connoisseur, with a knowledge and appreciation of beauty, quality and true style. She is one of the industry’s foremost experts on the valuation of fine gems and jewelry, and is now happy to share her discerning eye and impeccable taste to help you look and feel fabulous!

CIRCA Polo Team Wins Season Opener

Chris Del Gatto and the CIRCA Polo team won their first game of the season over Santa Clara this past Saturday, February 6, at the International Polo Club in Palm Beach. With this win, the team advances to the 2nd round of the 14 goal Freebooter’s Cup. Along with Captain Chris Del Gatto, the CIRCA team consists of Martin Pepa, Francisco Bilbao and Santiago Torres. Their next match is scheduled for Thursday, February 11, against Villa del Lago.

Photo: David Lominska, As reported in
The Morning Line Magazine

Guest Blogger - Cristina Greeven Cuomo

Every jewel tells a story. CIRCA asked Cristina Greeven Cuomo about some of her favorite jewelry pieces:

As a show of friendship, I recently exchanged diamond micro band bangles with one of my favorite friends and my decorator, Emma Pilkington. I found this amazing New York City jewelry designer, Shawn Warren, who sells a few things out of Phoebe Cates’ Madison Avenue store, Blue Tree, but mostly by appointment and via her website. Her pieces are quite organic and many are finished in a subtle black rhodium, a perfect compliment to all of us black-clad city girls.

I also love a pair of diamond and emerald teardrop earrings from Nina Runsdorf who designs one-of-a-kind, delicate pieces. My friend Samantha Boardman Rosen introduced me to her and after delivering my third child, I am putting them at the top of my list. They’d make a great ‘push present’ which every New York mom deserves.

- Cristina Greeven Cuomo is Editorial Director for Niche Media, including Gotham and Hamptons magazines  

Images: Cristina Greeven Cuomo, Source: Avenue Magazine; Shawn Warren DiGo Pavé Bands & Heritage Rough Cut Bands, source: www.shawnwarrenjewelry.com

CIRCA Blog Introduces New Features

As New York Fashion Week approaches, and benefit and awards season are underway, it gives us yet another reason to talk about jewelry. I am proud to introduce two exciting new additions to the CIRCA blog.

Today, we are launching the CIRCA Guest Blogger Series, where true arbiters of style will write about their favorite pieces of jewelry and the stories behind them. Our collection of bloggers includes a world-renowned fashion designer, supermodel, magazine editor, national TV personality and many more.

On Wednesday, we will launch In the Loupe, penned by CIRCA’s resident trendspotter and style maven who is also one of the foremost experts in the jewelry industry. In this new column, she will share her discerning eye, global lifestyle and impeccable taste of all things beautiful and luxurious. In the Loupe will offer a unique insight into the ‘finer things in life’ including the most exclusive pieces, color trends and ideas on how to wear any gem.

We hope you enjoy the ongoing discussion that’s focused around CIRCA’s passion and expertise in the world of jewelry. We look forward to hearing from you as we continue to share and showcase the lifestyle of CIRCA.

Sincerely,

Chris Del Gatto
Chairman & CEO

An Engaging Stone

With Valentine’s Day approaching, it seemed fitting to feature the very symbol of love and commitment - the diamond engagement ring.

Most people believe that the tradition of engagement rings began with the Greeks. The practice of wearing the engagement ring on the left hand, however, dates back to an Egyptian tradition of wanting the ring to be on the vena amoris, or the “vein of love”, located on the fourth finger of the left hand. One of the first noted accounts of an engagement ring being given was when the Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave a diamond ring to Mary of Burgundy on the occasion of their betrothal in 1477. At that time, diamonds were reserved for royalty and the wealthy. It wasn’t until the introduction of modern mining techniques in South Africa in the late 1800’s that they became accessible to the public.

As every woman knows, engagement rings come in all shape and sizes. This particular ring is platinum with an old mine cut diamond, set with a diamond baguette on either side. The old mine cut predates the current standard, the round brilliant diamond, and was popular in the 18th & 19th centuries (for another example of an old mine cut, see our previous post on the Edwardian pendant). Since this cut predates modern advances in the science of diamond cutting, they can be less brilliant than what we are used to today. Modern cuts adhere to specific guidelines for maximizing the brilliance and light return of a diamond; while old mine cuts can be irregular or have poor symmetry. That being said, they have a certain charm and a very “soft” look that some people prefer. However, while many collectors appreciate old mine cut diamonds, they tend not to fetch as high of a price in the secondary market as modern cuts do.

Superior Craftsmanship - Edwardian Jewelry

We’ve received many requests from readers asking us to post tips on how to tell if a piece of jewelry is the genuine article. For a definitive answer, you should always bring your piece to an expert to be evaluated. That said, there are things to look for to help you decide if you should take the next step and seek an expert opinion. As an example, we’ll use this platinum and diamond Edwardian pendant, circa 1910, pictured here front and back. As we mentioned in our previous post, there is a certain delicate, almost ephemeral quality to Edwardian jewelry. This piece is no exception – it measures only 1 ½ by 1 ½ inches, and weighs next to nothing, making the intricate design all the more striking. The piece is so dainty, in fact, that you almost forget that it is made of platinum, a very durable metal. It was actually the use of platinum, which became more widespread in the beginning of the 20th century, that allowed for the lace-like Garland style that characterizes Edwardian jewelry. Gold and silver are softer metals, and therefore more metal is required to hold stones in place.

This particular piece is constructed by saw-piercing platinum, a technique that coincided with the rise in popularity of platinum jewelry. Saw-pierced pieces have a very open feel because of the amount of metal that is removed during the process. On this piece, the technique is complemented by millegrain-set diamonds, featuring a lovely old mine cut diamond center, the earliest form of the brilliant cut diamond. The millegrain setting is a technique in which the stone is secured by tiny beads (or grains) of metal, giving the piece a very soft texture and reducing the glare of flat metal.

A good way to spot a true Edwardian piece is by looking at the back. Very fine pieces of Edwardian jewelry are as beautiful from the back as they are from the front, and could almost be worn either way. As you can see, this piece uses only enough metal to hold the stones in place. There are no globs of solder, which tend to plague pieces of lesser quality. If you think you have an Edwardian piece, feel the back to see if it is smooth and uniform. Craftsmanship was highly valued in the early 1900’s, and this type of workmanship is almost non-existent today. However, the current climate is ushering in a new definition of luxury – a renewed focus on quality and craftsmanship. If jewelers truly embrace this shift, it could be a very exciting time for the industry.