The Return of a Classic - The Marinière Shirt

I am so glad to see my perennial favorite back again – the marinière shirt in its various guises. This basic item forms a great palette for the wearer to add his or her own signature style. I remember a very chic client who came in with an L.L. Bean t-shirt version and wore a large Verdura Maltese cuff with great élan!

All the great fashion designers have sent models down the runway in them for both prêt-a-porter and haute couture shows, just look at Jean-Paul Gaultier (right) and Alexander Wang, and for the more budget-conscious, Sonia Rykiel for H&M. So get your version of it, like my colleague here (below), and wear it well with large bangles and cuffs. Since it usually invokes “cruise” wear, it also pairs well with marine-themed jewelry like sea-shell earclips from Seaman Schepps, starfish brooches or coral necklaces.

Emerald by Day, Ruby by Night

There are few stones that have the intrigue of an Alexandrite. At first glance, one can tell there is something different about Alexandrite, but it takes a change of light to reveal what attracts admirers.

A fine Alexandrite is green in daylight (pictured left), but in incandescent light it turns a soft purplish red. The picture below is from the gemological report which illustrates the color change. This phenomenon is what gives the stone its nickname “Emerald by Day, Ruby by Night” as well as the attention of collectors and gemologists alike. There is a certain romance in a stone that can change as you move from a sunny day outdoors into a dark, lamp-lit room.

Simply Stunning

It’s always a pleasure to be able to buy a piece of jewelry that really says “wow”. These stunners from the 1970’s have had that effect on a number of CIRCA’s buyers. These earrings were clearly not made by the hands of a master jeweler; the carved out surfaces, for instance, are not well finished. Still, they have such a grand look that it is easy to forgive any shortcoming in their construction.
 
These earrings are made of coral and diamonds set in 18 karat yellow gold, and are stylistically similar to designs by David Webb and Van Cleef & Arpels from that time period. Jewelry from the late 60’s and early 70’s had a heavy Indian and Islamic influence, which manifested itself in large pieces and vivid color. These particular earrings also have diamond settings that are scalloped and come to a point, a shape that is often found in Islamic architecture. 

In Search of the Modern Day Tiara

Considering the plethora of hair products we use, it is shocking that the options to enhance our coiffures with adornments are so limited. Reading CIRCA’s recent post on the 19th Century hair comb made me wonder - whatever happened to those floral-style diamond combs, barrettes and clips which ladies once owned? I would hereby like to lobby jewelers to make hair ornaments as another fashion option. Are you listening Cartier, VCA, Tiffany?

Just picture a sprinkling of little diamonds attached to bobby-pins in the hair – how cheerful is that? Or a large comb bejeweled with different hues of colored stones to match your outfit or your complexion. Ladies in the 19th century knew much about adornment when they lavished themselves with brooches, chokers and most importantly, tiaras.

Long and Lean

Is it March already? I thought for sure this would be the year that my “new year, new you” resolution would become a reality. Oh well – thank goodness you don’t have to lose weight to wear a pair of earrings!

I’m sorry, but I cannot give up my cocktails and pasta. Instead, I turn to a secret I’ve been using for years - dark clothes with lots of long chains. This is a very chic look that everyone can wear well. Some say that one must be tall to wear long chains - au contraire! - they can make anyone look long and lean, if worn correctly. Just remember:

- There must be a little bit of weight to the chain so that there will be movement but not full swings, which can lead to tangling.
- Some color from stones or pearls can add structure to an otherwise plain piece of jewelry.
- Since you have the added layer of long chains, please forego the ruffles on the front of your dress or top.

When the spring weather arrives and you put away the dark clothes and tire of the long chains, don’t despair – just twist them up into “bracelets”. On the other hand, what a nice excuse to go out and buy something new… Remember ladies – it’s all about you!

In the Loupe is authored by CIRCA’s resident trendspotter and style maven. Her expertise in life’s finer things comes from a background that is as rich and diverse as the jewels she evaluates. She’s traveled the world, dabbling in high finance, haute cuisine, and fine art at one of the world’s leading auction houses, before finding her true calling in the world of priceless gems. The result is a genuine global luxury connoisseur, with a knowledge and appreciation of beauty, quality and true style. She is one of the industry’s foremost experts on the valuation of fine gems and jewelry, and is now happy to share her discerning eye and impeccable taste to help you look and feel fabulous!

Lucky Charms

It’s St. Patrick’s Day, a day when we toast the “Luck of the Irish” and nothing symbolizes luck like a four-leaf clover. Four-leaf clovers are rarer than their three-leaf cousins, the Irish shamrock, so it is universally accepted that finding one is a good omen. According to legend, the four leaves represent hope, faith, love and of course, luck.

People are always attracted to good luck charms, and one woman in particular who believed in the power of luck was Coco Chanel. She has been quoted as saying “Luck is a way of being, Luck is my soul.” Coco Chanel was famous for her regard for symbols, and wove them into her many creations. The four-leaf clover, with its symmetry of the four leaves, was a particularly favorite motif of Chanel’s. There were other oft-used symbols of good luck that resonated with the designer on a personal level, including the number 5 – her lucky number; the camellia – her favorite flower and a symbol of longevity and purity, and the comet - a shooting star that can make a wish come true.

This particular 18 karat gold Chanel four-leaf clover charm is one that can be attached to a charm bracelet or removed and worn on a chain. There is a clasp attachment which makes it easy for the charm to be clipped on to just about anything. Although Chanel’s costume jewelry has been famous since her collaboration with Verdura in the 1930’s, its foray into fine jewelry has been more recent. In a relatively short time, they have acquired a stellar reputation, making their pieces ones that we strive to buy at CIRCA.

A Royal Affair

Audemars Piguet is one of the most well respected names in the watch industry, and is known for its high quality and complicated watches. The company was founded in 1875 by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux, considered to be the birthplace of Swiss horology.

In 1972, Audemars Piguet launched what has since become the company’s signature - the Royal Oak, designed by the now legendary Gerald Genta. It was the first stainless steel luxury sports watch, and was considered to be a very risky move at the time. Skeptics could not imagine such a high price-tag on a stainless steel watch. The risk paid off and the Royal Oak was wildly popular, and today accounts for over half of the company’s total sales.

The Cat's Meow

Few items in the world of jewelry are as iconic as the Panthère de Cartier. These panthers have been grabbing the public’s attention for almost a century, and they never seem to go out of style.

In the early 1900’s, there were animal prints turning up everywhere. Some credit this to the transition from the Edwardian era to the hard-edged Art Deco years. The new movement in interior design meant these prints were embellishing people’s home décor, which soon translated to their vanity cases, and eventually their jewelry. In 1915, the first official use by Cartier of the panther motif came to life in the form of a diamond chatelaine with onyx “panther” spots. This piece was specially designed for the American wife of Pierre Cartier, and was an interpretation of the panther theme, rather than an actual depiction of the animal.

The first 3-dimensional representation of a panther was commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for his wife in 1948. The piece was a 116-carat cabochon emerald clip brooch topped with a golden panther with black spots. The Duke and Duchess of Windsor continued to be Cartier Panther enthusiasts, and the Duchess is often credited with the revival of the panther theme. Among the many pieces commissioned by the couple was an impressive 152-carat cabochon sapphire with a diamond and onyx panther draped on top.

Oscar Night - Kudos to the Risk Takers

Naturally everyone looked wonderful at the Oscars – as we should hope since our celebrities are always professionally styled for the occasion. And that is why I miss Cher – she made some questionable choices, but they were always a statement of her personality and style. Still, even in today’s world of celebrity stylists, there were glimpses of personal choices on Oscar night.

First, I applaud Maggie Gyllenhaal for her choice of a Dries Van Noten gown; perhaps it was because I had just tried on some of his pieces from the same fantastic Fall collection that afternoon. It was different from the usual “red carpet” gown but it was elegant, understated, and had a beautiful line. More importantly, it was definitely “her”. The result was that she really wore that gown instead of the gown just being put on her.

The same goes for Sarah Jessica Parker – the haute couture Chanel is drop dead chic and sooo French, in the spirit of the grand salons. There was movement and fluidity in the gown, and she wore it with an ease that is missing from most of the stars on the red carpet. It was a bold choice, since we generally like a more traditional look for a Hollywood star. However, SJP is a true star for taking risks and defining style, and she belonged in that Chanel!

As for jewelry – how I miss Elizabeth Taylor! No one even remembers what she wore to the Oscars, but everyone still talks about her jewelry. She created a media sensation at the 42nd Academy Awards when she unveiled the 69.42 ct Taylor-Burton diamond. Her then-husband Richard Burton outbid Cartier to buy that diamond, then had Cartier design a necklace around it. That is what we girls should all aspire to – having a diamond named after us!

There were some wonderful pieces and great stylistic choices at this Oscar ceremony, but I do miss the stars in their own jewelry. I can understand borrowing a gown - it can only be worn a couple of times, at most. But, ladies - have you not heard? A diamond is forever!

In the Loupe is authored by CIRCA’s resident trendspotter and style maven. Her expertise in life’s finer things comes from a background that is as rich and diverse as the jewels she evaluates. She’s traveled the world, dabbling in high finance, haute cuisine, and fine art at one of the world’s leading auction houses, before finding her true calling in the world of priceless gems. The result is a genuine global luxury connoisseur, with a knowledge and appreciation of beauty, quality and true style. She is one of the industry’s foremost experts on the valuation of fine gems and jewelry, and is now happy to share her discerning eye and impeccable taste to help you look and feel fabulous!

Seaman Schepps

Seaman Schepps is considered to be one of New York’s greatest jewelers and is known for their bold designs and unusual materials, as well as their nautical-themed jewelry. Founder Seaman Schepps grew up in the tenements of New York’s Lower East Side as the child of Hungarian immigrants. He opened his first store on Madison Avenue in the early 1930’s, eventually moving to the flagship store on Park Avenue, which has become a New York City institution. He quickly gained the affection of New Yorkers with his witty, over-the-top designs and charming personality. In the 1950’s, Schepps was dubbed “America’s Court Jeweler” because of his high-profile clientele which included Vanderbilts, Rockefellers, Roosevelts and more.

In his trips to Paris, Schepps was inspired by the early works of Boivin and Verdura, which is apparent in many of his designs. His signature collection - seashells wrapped in gold and set with gems - combines both his favored sea motif and his use of unorthodox natural materials. Schepps is also known for his “bubble” designs, which feature a cluster of cabochon gems resembling bubbles.

We recently purchased this Seaman Schepps classic - earrings made of carved wood and gold, called “Shrimp Earrings” because of their shape and design. Wood is not a material that most people associate with fine jewelry, but it can often be found in Seaman Schepps pieces. In the case of these earrings it creates a rich, warm feel.  Seaman Schepps jewelry is still very popular among collectors, and CIRCA always looks forward to buying their pieces.

Guest Blogger - Jill Martin

Every jewel tells a story. CIRCA asked Jill Martin about her favorite jewelry piece:

I have a brooch my grandmother gave me.  It is gold with diamonds and tiny pearls.  I love it and wear it with everything.  I started wearing it on my cashmere winter hat and I get stopped in the streets—it is also great to wear a brooch on a purse…gives it an instant pop.  It is always nice to take something that is so meaningful to you and use it to update items already in your closet!

- Jill Martin is a three-time Emmy nominated sportscaster and television personality, and fashion correspondent for NBC's The Today Show

This Cartier platinum, diamond and pearl flower motif brooch (shown) is an instant heirloom. Image: www.cartier.com

A Night Out at the Frick

On the night of the great NYC blizzard, I attended the Frick Collection’s Young Fellows Ball with Hamish Upmann, my colleague and intrepid escort.  New Yorkers never miss a great party and all were decked out in their finest.  At CIRCA, social events are important, since they are good barometers of fashion, mood and style.

These events are also often opportunities for us to show our support for the community. Last year, CIRCA donated jewelry to the Paper Bag Players in NYC to benefit an arts program in the local public schools. Just recently, we continued our support of the arts with events sponsoring the Norton Museum in Palm Beach and the Field Museum in Chicago.

Non-profits need our support today more than ever, so it was gratifying to see everyone out in force at the Frick. Tiffany & Co. had a presence with 5 models (and some burly body guards) wearing Art Deco-inspired pieces in line with the “Deco” theme of the Ball. Society stalwarts like Stephen and Christine Schwarzman (who are Frick trustees) mingled with young entrepreneurs like Leora Kadisha of StyledOn.com.

My only complaint (aside from my blizzard-ruined shoes) was the dearth of jewelry. I wished there had been more, but this is the “Young” Fellows Ball after all. I am now lobbying Hamish to take me along to the Grand Order of the Amaranth Ball hosted by King Carl Gustave XVI in Stockholm, which he always attends in April. Since this is in the royal court, surely there will be more jewelry there?

In the Loupe is authored by CIRCA’s resident trendspotter and style maven. Her expertise in life’s finer things comes from a background that is as rich and diverse as the jewels she evaluates. She’s traveled the world, dabbling in high finance, haute cuisine, and fine art at one of the world’s leading auction houses, before finding her true calling in the world of priceless gems. The result is a genuine global luxury connoisseur, with a knowledge and appreciation of beauty, quality and true style. She is one of the industry’s foremost experts on the valuation of fine gems and jewelry, and is now happy to share her discerning eye and impeccable taste to help you look and feel fabulous!

Jaded

As one would expect, CIRCA’s Hong Kong office sees a lot of jade pass through its doors. Very few stones can range in value as much as jade. You can buy jade trinkets for a dollar on the street, while other pieces will sell for many millions. This is because jade can be found in a wide range of colors and qualities. Jadeite is the technical term, and is what the typical person thinks of when hearing the word ‘jade’. The finest jadeite is semitransparent, meaning that it is able to transmit some light with distortion, has an even color and has not been treated in any way. The more opaque the piece is, the lower its value.

Jadeite comes in a variety of colors, especially jadeite from Burma, which can be found in yellow, orange, green, and even lavender. The most highly valued colors of jadeite, however, are the rich, strong greens, commonly referred to as “imperial jade”. Due to its inconsistent quality, it’s not uncommon for jadeite to be bleached and then dyed and injected with polymers. This is an acceptable practice, but will affect the value of the piece considerably. If you are buying jadeite, you should know if the piece has been treated in any way. If you suspect your jadeite of being treated, you should have it examined by a professional under magnification. If the color is highly concentrated in the fractures, then there is a good chance that the jadeite has been dyed.

This particular pair of earrings is not considered to be fine jadeite because of the uneven color distribution and lack of transparency. If the jadeite were not set with lovely platinum and diamond Art Deco mountings, it would have very little intrinsic value. The fact that these are original Art Deco earrings from the 1930s is what makes them collectible, not the jadeite itself.