With the end of First World War, people were starved for new, innovative designs. Styles ran the gamut across eras and cultures. In the jewelry world, the Art Deco Period saw the emergence of many non-western inspirations, in particular from the Far East. Chinese themes began to influence design houses around 1923, the year of the Paris Opera Chinese Ball. Elegant, fashionable women in both the US and Europe were drawn to the exotic Chinese culture and were enticed by jewels and objects bearing Chinese-influenced imagery and whimsical contrasts of scale. Enamel, coral, onyx and jade were popularized, and designers incorporated several of the materials into one piece to produce striking and original decorative effects.
This pendant, standing about 2 inches in height, is circa mid 1920’s and has French hallmarks but carries a very Eastern theme. It is comprised of a carved jade plaque depicting an oversized bird within foliage, enveloped with diamonds, and fanciful flora in jade, lapis and enamel set in platinum and 18k white gold. While it doesn’t have the linear design typically identified with Art Deco, this piece truly encompasses the 1920’s in the jewelry world with the enticing combination of diamonds, precious stones (specifically jade) and enamel. It combines both Eastern and Western themes to create a carefully crafted work of art.
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